Date: 18-04-2025

I slept well and got up at nine o'clock. Outside, the sky was a brilliant blue again, so things were looking good. I had a sandwich in the train station concourse and waited for the train there in the sunshine. Today I’m taking the high-speed train to Córdoba, a journey of just under an hour. The top speed I saw on this train was 301 km/h—that’s really fast!

Date: 19-04-2025 

A heavy downpour woke me up early this morning. It had been a late night yesterday, too; around 1:30 AM, I could still hear the brass bands accompanying the processions outside. So, it was a short night.

I managed to buy an admission ticket for the Mezquita today—entry is at 11:30. I’ve been there before, but it’ll be nice to see it again!

Afterwards, I took a walk through the city. It's very beautiful here!

In the evening, I went to eat in another part of the city center because everything was packed due to the processions. I ran into a procession there, too. There was no escaping it! 😂

Date: 20-04-2025

Since I couldn't book the same hotel for the entire stay—everything was fully booked due to Easter—I had to move to a different place for the last night. I rented an apartment near the bus station. The bus will take me out of the city tomorrow, saving me from a long walk through an industrial area.

So, today I just took a walk around the city, exploring areas a bit further out from the old town. It’s actually a really nice city!

But it is time to set off and start walking tomorrow!

Back on the road at last. After a few days in Córdoba, I’d seen enough of that place! So, this morning I took the bus to El Vacar, a tiny hamlet just north of Córdoba. Opposite the bus stop was a bakery-cum-café, where I started off with a cup of coffee and two chocolate croissants. A tasty breakfast! I had actually intended to walk here from Córdoba. According to the internet, there was a café here that also rented out rooms. I had tried emailing, messaging, and calling them but couldn't get through. Now that I’m here, I see the café is closed today, so I still don't know if they actually rent out rooms. I set off quickly after that. The online profile for today’s route showed it as fairly flat—so much for that! It turned out to have quite a few ups and downs, which I hadn't expected. Not ideal for a first day! The scenery was beautiful, though. The start involved a lot of walking on asphalt, but then the path turned into the woods. There were lots of flowers in bloom, and I saw plenty of hares and roe deer darting across the trail. I finally arrived at my accommodation at 5:15 PM, completely exhausted. It was an old farmhouse that was no longer a family home. The owners had experienced a fire (in a different building) in the past and moved to another village. They had renovated this farmhouse, added a few rooms with bathrooms, and it was now ready to rent out. I turned out to be the only guest, and the owner was just about to leave. The building was located far from the village, situated halfway between the woods and an open plain, with two large guard dogs outside. When the dogs start barking every hour, it doesn't exactly put your mind at ease 😅. In the evening, I enjoyed sitting by the fireplace with a glass of wine, as it was getting quite chilly!

Date: 22-04-2025
Distance: 20 km
Up: 359 m
Down: 455 m

Got up early this morning. Had a poor, restless night's sleep; there were several dogs around the house taking turns letting everyone know they weren't asleep yet. Took my time packing my backpack and getting breakfast ready. Don't picture anything fancy—just four slices of baguette for the toaster, some jam, and a cup of instant coffee. Still, it was something; I was glad I had two bananas and a bag of nuts with me.

Today's route was a bit flatter than yesterday's. It wound through a nature park, and the scenery was lovely. I had to cross a stream twice to get to the other side; the second time, the stepping stones were actually underwater due to the recent heavy rain. There was also a lot of standing water on the paths that hadn't drained away yet. Fortunately, my shoes are reasonably waterproof.

I didn't run into a soul or pass a single village along the way. It would have been nice to have a cold drink now and then, but that wasn't an option. I had booked a hostel in Alcaracejos via Booking.com, and it was easy to find. There’s a bar right across the street where I can get dinner and breakfast tomorrow—so that’s all sorted! The highlight of the day was an animal I happened to spot while dodging puddles on the path. It got quite a startle! 😀

Date: 23-04-2025
Distance: 22 km
Up: 194 m
Down: 246 m

I finally slept well, though I woke up early. There were a lot of road workers staying at the hotel, and they start early!

It was set to be a few degrees warmer today—23°C—so leaving a bit earlier wasn't a problem. There was a bar across from the hotel where I could get breakfast. Naturally, the TV was blaring with news coverage about the Pope. Everyone here is talking about it—it is a Catholic country, after all! I ran into two Dutch people at the bar; they had been walking for eight days and were heading to Mérida—a place I won't be visiting. Nice folks from Leiden. I set off after breakfast; it was already getting warm. I draped a cloth over my head to protect my neck—it provided some cooling, and I certainly didn't want to get badly sunburned this early on. The dogs along the way reacted aggressively to it, though 😀. They were the kind of farm dogs used to guard sheep flocks in northern Spain—the sort that make you think twice about climbing over a fence.

Nothing was open in the first village I passed through. Today’s route took me along sandy paths running a few hundred meters to the left or right of the main road. There was still a lot of standing water on the paths here, as it doesn't drain away due to the hard-packed sand. It was a beautiful area, dotted with the occasional massive *finca*—a large farmhouse.

A bar was open in the second village, so it was time for a cold Coke. Delicious. Here, too, there were large stork nests atop the church tower, with the birds clattering loudly. You seem to find a pair of storks on every tower around here.

I arrived in Hinojosa around 2:00 PM. My hotel was right there on the left as I entered the village. It was a surprisingly beautiful, modern hotel at a bargain price. It even had a sunny balcony—the perfect spot to do a bit of laundry, knowing it would dry quickly in the sun. After that, I had a delicious meal, took a shower, and had a nap. Around six o'clock, I walked into the town center and noticed they have a cathedral there. A large, stately church—but it was closed!

Next to the church, there were some outdoor terraces, and sure enough, that’s where the two Dutch people were sitting. I enjoyed a glass of vermouth with them for a while before heading to bed, as tomorrow promises to be a long day—and a few degrees warmer, too.

Date: 25-04-2025
Distance: 19 km
Up: 234 m
Down: 248 m

After yesterday’s grueling ordeal, things couldn't get much worse. Yesterday had been very taxing due to the hot weather and the long distance. Today promised to be a bit more relaxed—or at least shorter, at 19 km—though once again there would be nowhere to get supplies along the way, so I had to carry plenty of water. Shortly after leaving the village, I found myself walking through a sort of nature park. There was a sandy path, beautiful trees, and lots of wildflowers. Simply stunning. You could even spot signs of life in the small pools beside the road—lovely to see. Then, out in the middle of nowhere, you suddenly come across a house painted purple—and surprisingly enough, it doesn't look out of place at all. 😀

It was a great route today—lovely paths and few hills. After noon, however, it got quite warm and the wind died down. Along the way, I called Hostel Los Naranjas in Castuera—sort of a roadside inn—to book a room. I haven't stayed in an albergue so far, and I’m actually quite happy about that. Cost isn't an issue, either; pilgrims pay €22 here, which is very reasonable 😀. The food here is excellent, too! I ran into the Dutch group from Leiden at the restaurant again and had a really enjoyable evening!

Date: 26-04-2025
Distance: 29 km
Up: 304 m
Down: 497 m

This is the first day on the Camino Mozárabe por Trujillo—a route that isn't officially recognized by the church because it isn't listed in the Codex. This Camino emerged over time, created by people who wanted to walk from Córdoba to Santiago but wished to avoid the Vía de la Plata. The route passes through Trujillo, Monfragüe and Plasencia; since I’ve already walked the Vía de la Plata—which is beautiful, by the way—I decided to take this route until it rejoins the Vía de la Plata at Plasencia. I’ll have to switch to the Plata there to continue heading north.

I said goodbye to the two Dutch hikers at breakfast this morning; it was a shame to part ways, as we’d had a great few days. For the first time, it was wonderfully cool outside. There was a pleasant breeze and the temperature was around 15 degrees—a real relief. The route immediately led back into nature along a dirt track, though this time the fields were grassy rather than flowery—a nice change of pace. Today’s walk covers a distance in the high twenties, and I didn't want to arrive too late. With these temperatures, that shouldn't be a problem. I took my first break after 14 km, sitting on a large boulder by the path. I couldn't find any bananas in the village yesterday, so I had to settle for two Mars bars today. 😀 There were beautiful vistas and villages nestled against distant hills. Along the way, I saw some incredibly large farm complexes—they were so big, they looked like factories.

In the distance, a strange mountain loomed into view: a large, prominent mound with a castle on top and a village clinging to its side.

Ik dacht nog, echt iets voor de camino om daar in dat dorp te eindigen. En ja hoor, naarmate ik dichterbij kaam bleek het dus idd het eindstation te zijn Magacela. Gelukkig hoefde ik niet helemaal de berg op maar onderaan de voet was het Casa Rural wat ik middags gebeld had. Om 10 over 2 kwam ik daar aan. Wat een mooi huis zeg. Keurige slaapkamer, keuken, badkamer en overdekt buitengedeelte. Incl ontbijt en een fles bier voor ontvangst. De bar waar evt gegeten kon worden zat boven op de berg. Ik had daar niet zo’n zin in, had genoeg gelopen waarop de vrouw van dit huid zei dat zij ook wel wilde koken. Nou prima. Voor een totaalprijs van €35 voor kamer, ontbijt en avondeten ga ik de bult niet op! 😀

Date: 27-04-2025
Distance: 32 km
Up: 245 m
Down: 322 m

I got up this morning to a brilliantly blue sky. There was little to no wind, promising another hot day. Two large bottles of water were waiting on the outdoor table, just as the owner had promised; she had said she would bring them over. My breakfast was ready, too, along with some instant coffee so I could make a cup myself. Delicious!

I had already hiked up the mountain the previous afternoon and didn't feel like doing it again with my backpack—facing a 150-meter climb so early in the day. So, I took the road around the mountain instead; I believe it was actually a shorter route, too.

The landscape here in Extremadura is pretty much the same everywhere: long, straight roads and lots of greenery. Strikingly beautiful trees, picturesque little villages, and plenty of storks. After 14 km, I arrived in a larger town, Villanueva de la Serena. I grabbed a bite to eat there, as the rest of the day’s plans were a bit uncertain. Beyond the town lay a large industrial zone—smelly and dirty. Then, back into nature via a bridge 80 meters above a river; brrr, that’s high (and I’m afraid of heights) 😀.

I had planned to spend the night in Villar de Rena. According to the Facebook group, there was supposed to be accommodation there, as well as two bars for food. Upon arrival, I had to call someone to come and open the door. "No," he said, "there’s no accommodation in this village." I had to go another 4 km—meaning another 40 minutes on the road. That was a nuisance, as it was already around 2:15 PM and very hot. Still, off I went. In the next village, I headed straight for the church, since there’s always a café nearby. At the café, I asked some young people if there was a place for pilgrims to sleep. One of them immediately made a call and indicated that I should go inside to eat and drink first, and that he would walk with me afterwards to show me the location. The bartender mentioned right away that he also ran a small shop—which is normally closed on Sundays—but said that if I needed anything, he’d happily walk over and unlock the door for me. I was amazed—such kindness! Well, time to eat first! I had a solemio—a steak bigger than any I’d ever seen, and delicious! Afterward, I stopped by the shop for water and then headed to the albergue. It was a tidy setup with a few small rooms next to the church, each with a bed. The only downside was the church bell chiming every hour—it was right above my roof! 😂

Date: 28-04-2025
Distance: 21 km

I had breakfast at the café from the day before. Once I’d finished, I headed back to my sleeping spot beneath the church tower. I arrived just in time to catch a man who was about to lock the metal gate leading to my accommodation. I told him I needed to get in, and he muttered something back in an angry tone—a strange character. Then he opened the gate again and walked off, still muttering.

I packed my bag and made a quick stop at the town hall to get my credential stamped and ask about the cost of the accommodation. I got the stamp, and the stay was free—great stuff! 😂

I left the village via a terrible path strewn with large pebbles; it was hard going. After a while, I reached Campo Lugar; it was a nothing place—there was absolutely nothing there. Even the bar was closed (it was a Monday). There was supposed to be a roadside bar 4 km further on. When I arrived, I ordered a baguette with cheese and a nice cup of coffee. But when the barwoman tried to turn on the coffee machine, the power cut out. Oh well, it happens.

After that, it was another 4 km to Abertura. Another tiny village with absolutely nothing going on 😂. I went straight to the town hall to ask for a place to stay because there were six other pilgrims behind me; if they wanted to sleep there too and got in before me, I’d be left without a bed. It turned out they were being driven back and forth by car—Americans from New York. The people in this village were incredibly friendly, too. I was given the key to the community center and the municipal pool (for a shower), directions to the bar and shop, and the news that the power had gone out across Spain, Portugal, and France. That’s not good, of course! I hope they fix it soon!

Ik sliep in het dorpshuis. Een grote zaal waar een opklapbed onder het podium uit werd getrokken en ik op kon liggen. Omdat er dus geen stroom was ben ik maar buiten gaan zitten wachtend tot het donker zou gaan worden. Vermoedelijk was dit een dorps verzamelplaats want een man of 20 met kinderen vonden dit ook. Er was thuis natuurlijk niks zonder stroom. Dit duurde tot uurtje of 10 en net toen ik dacht ook maar te gaan slapen kwam een van die vrouwen met een Engels sprekende dochter terug met 2 grote kaarsen en twee aanstekers. Die zou ik wel kunnen gebruiken nu er geen stroom was. Ongelofelijk! 

Date: 29-04-2025
Distance: 28 km
Up: 348 m
Down: 230 m

This morning, I tidied up the sleeping area and checked if the bar was open for breakfast. No such luck. The shop was open, though, so I bought a bag of Magdalenas to tide me over until later. Not a great route today: the paths were in bad shape—churned up and flooded with rainwater—and there wasn't much to see. You hardly run into anyone out here anyway; the only living creatures around are cows and storks. Still, the weather is nice—just the occasional cloud—even though the weather app predicted rain right about now 😂

I arrived in Trujillo at 3:00 PM. What a lovely city; the center feels truly medieval. There’s a large castle atop a hill, with medieval streets winding outside the surrounding walls. It’s beautiful. It’s a shame they’re setting things up in the Plaza Mayor, though—tents are being erected for some kind of cheese fair this weekend. It spoils the photos a bit. I had a nice meal at Hostel Hueso and rinsed out my hiking shirt again—something I do every day. I’m so glad it dries so quickly!

Date: 30-04 and 01-05-2025

Vandaag zou ik 14 km lopen naar La Aldea del Obispo. Het was alleen onzeker of daar een slaapplaats was en of daar wel een gelegenheid was om daar te eten. Het was een risico om daar heen te lopen om vervolgens geen faciliteiten te hebben. Ook kon ik bij uitblijven van deze faciliteiten niet doorlopen naar de volgende stop want dat zou 36 km verder zijn bovenop de 14 km en dat is te gek. Ook was het niet mogelijk rechtstreeks met de bus naar de daarop volgende stop te gaan. Dus maar een alternatief gekozen en via een omweg met de bus naar de volgende stop gegaan, Torrejon el Rubio. Eerst met de bus naar Cáceres daarna met een andere bus naar Plasencia en toen met een klein busje uiteindelijk naar TeR. 150 Km in de bus gezeten en dat kost hier bijna niks, onbegrijpelijk, alle bussen bij elkaar nog geen €9. 

In dit dorp had ik een Casa Rural geboekt en kon er dus een nacht bijboeken want ik was er nu dus een dag eerder. Wel lekker. Ook wel fijn die bussen want het water viel vandaag met bakken uit de lucht. Ook de verwachting voor vrijdag en zaterdag is een 5 cm regen samen. Tijdens de laatste bus zag ik de route voor vrijdag naar Plasencia, een 30 km langs de kant van de weg. Dat in combinatie met de vele regen zou het wel weer een busdag kunnen worden. 

Morgen hier in de buurt een wandeling maken, het is hier erg mooi en een droge dag. Geen verslag voor morgen dus.

Date: 02 and 03-05-2025

Spending two days sheltering in Plasencia. It’s chilly and very rainy on both days. On Sunday, the 4th or 5th, it’s a 35 km walk to Aldeanueva del Camino, where I’ll be staying for two nights. The local weather app predicts 22 mm of rain for that day, too. If that forecast holds, I’ll end up taking the bus. Mind you, I’m starting to get a bit fed up with those buses. I came here to walk, not to take bus rides. On the other hand, there’s little point in getting absolutely soaked. A bit of rain is fine, but downpours like this are no fun anymore.

After Monday, the showers will ease off and there’ll be more sunshine!

Date: 04 and 05-05-2025

Arrived in Aldeanueva del Camino in the pouring rain. For me, this is the first village on the Camino Vía de la Plata—a route that runs from Seville to Santiago. For the sake of simplicity, I’m continuing this log under the current name rather than switching to Vía de la Plata, since that route actually starts in Seville and I’m only walking a small section of it here (as will become apparent later). I’m staying here for two nights. I hadn’t anticipated such bad weather; had the weather been good, this would have been the first place I took a rest day. Sometimes things just don’t go quite the way you’d like. Tomorrow marks the return of dry weather. It’s set to stay dry for a few days, though after about four days, the rain will return at a rate of 4–5 mm daily. That’s not too bad and is perfectly manageable! The village is beautifully situated among the mountains, but the low-hanging clouds mean there’s not much to see. Hopefully, there will be better visibility tomorrow 😀

Finally back on the trail. I set off at 8 a.m. under a completely clear sky. It was a bit chilly—around 13 degrees—so I put on long sleeves and a neck gaiter. I was back on the Via de la Plata, where you occasionally run into other walkers; I soon overtook the first two. Today’s 22-kilometer walk would take me out of the Extremadura province and into Castile and León. The change in landscape was immediately apparent: no more vast open spaces and long, straight roads, but rather paths lined with stone walls, much like in the north. Upon arriving in Calzada, I discovered the albergue was one I remembered from eight or nine years ago, when I had walked the Plata route and stayed there before. It’s a lovely hostel, though this time I’ve got a single room—which suits me perfectly! I asked around a bit, and it seems there are about 22 people walking the route today. I’m curious to see how things go later on, when accommodation options become more limited.