Date: 24-05-2026
Distance: 30,9 km
Up: 864 m
Down: 399 m
Overnight: Hotel Albergaria Stop

There was a thunderstorm last night; I can't recall experiencing anything like it back home. The power went out and didn't come back on for half an hour. Quite intense!

Early this morning—Whit Sunday—I stepped out of the hotel to get breakfast and saw a vegetable stall being set up across the street. At the bar where we had breakfast, it was explained to me that this wasn't Pentecost here—that falls in August—but rather the day all the children made their First Communion. Otherwise, it wasn't a special day in Portugal. A strange story; I don't think Pentecost appears in August in either the Old or New Testament, but there you go.

Set off at a quarter past eight; it was already getting quite warm, with a clear blue sky. So, after just an hour, my back was already pretty sweaty. There are many large, old churches that haven't been maintained and are on the verge of collapse. I don't understand why they aren't demolished, as they are a real eyesore.

We were soon out of the village, and the first mountains came into view. Today’s route involved an ascent of 730 meters and a descent of 300 meters over a distance of 28 kilometers—quite a challenge in this heat and sunshine. There were many narrow paths still running with water from the previous night, though we also passed the occasional village where people were already busy pruning and tending to their gardens. The narrow paths were also strewn with large boulders, making it difficult to walk normally.

Date: 25-05-2026
Distance: 24 km
Up: 527 m
Down: 724 m
Overnight: Hotel AV Apartamientos Lobios

The path we followed was a nature trail that sloped downwards for the most part. Towards the end—about 3 kilometers from the finish—there was a steep, challenging ascent. It wasn't a nicely paved path, but rather one overgrown with roots and strewn with large boulders, making it very tiring to walk along.
After a while, we reached the Spanish border. Two dilapidated cottages served as reminders of the days when border checks were conducted here, just as they used to be back home. Now, they are merely run-down shacks that look unsightly amidst the beautiful natural surroundings.
Old milestones still stand along this route: large granite pillars bearing numbers, used in Roman times to mark distances along the road.

The sky began to clear, and it turned very hot. Fortunately, we had walked among the trees for most of the day, but now—with 3 km left to go—there was no shade, and the heat became intense. It was a real struggle. Normally, you’d cover those last 3 km in half an hour, but I think it took me a full hour this time. The village of Lobios, where we’d booked an apartment, lay just beyond the summit, and we arrived there fifteen minutes later. Finally! We didn't have the energy to explore the village; instead, we settled into the very first bar we found and ordered two cold Cokes. Cheesecake and a platter of cheese and ham make you forget all about the hardship! See you tomorrow—when we’ll be climbing even higher than today 🥴

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Date: 26-05-2026
Distance: 22 km
Up: 969 m
Down: 464 m
Overnight: Hotel Castrum Villae

I got up early again this morning—even earlier than usual, since it was going to be hot (32 degrees). I was already on the trail by 7:15 a.m., and the air was pleasantly fresh with a cool breeze. The hike was only about 21 km, but it involved a 969-meter ascent—something that isn't exactly pleasant in such heat. But at that time, it was still quite manageable.

It’s still nice and quiet outside, and as long as it stays cool, the walking is pleasant. Today involves visiting two national parks: first one on the Spanish side, then another on the Portuguese side. That also means the clocks go back an hour this afternoon. Right after leaving the village we were in, we headed up a forest path. It was an easy walk, and a small village soon came into view, complete with a bar serving coffee. After that, we continued for another hour and a half alongside a stream fed by mountain rainwater. It was a beautiful sight, with various small waterfalls; since this is an old Roman route, there were also ancient bridges and even sections of the original stone paths laid by the Romans. We also encountered several paths that were completely overgrown, as the grass is starting to grow again now that it’s spring.

At the top of the mountain, there was a beautiful path offering a lovely view and a pleasant breeze—now *this* was a great walk! You could see the village from afar, but I also realized it was situated atop a mountain. Oops. As I got closer, it became even more apparent. I had to climb another 200 meters or so in the heat—though fortunately, it was an asphalt road!

It all worked out in the end; after a lot of sweating and groaning, I reached the summit, and then there was still another 300 meters to the first terrace at the hotel 😁.

See you tomorrow—another tough day ahead, with 29 km and a 1,300-meter descent 🥴.

Date: 27-05-2026
Distance: 31 km
Up: 576 m
Down: 1317 m
Overnight: Casa Rural-Casa do Conde

Today was a total off-day. For all of us! Everyone—yes, including the men I’m walking with. Charles and Johan are brothers—one South African, the other Australian—and Chris is a friend of Charles’s from Drenthe; the two of them met in Nigeria. I can’t go into further detail about that for privacy reasons 😄. We met three years ago when we started walking from the same point in Almería, southern Spain, heading towards Salamanca. Since then, we’ve made plans to continue the walk to Santiago and hike together.

We were in agreement today: this just wasn't *the* day 🥴. None of us were feeling great, likely due to fatigue and the heat. It was already hot to start with, and we had a 1,300-meter descent ahead of us. On top of that, it was a 30 km trek in 34-degree heat—so it was a real struggle. The scenery wasn't all that great either; yesterday was beautiful, but today was far less impressive. We didn't come across any villages with a bar for coffee or anything like that—it just wasn't in the cards today.

Things were actually going quite well until about 4 km from the end, but then the wind died down; it was the hottest part of the day, and the final stretch of the path ran along a riverbank—but 50 meters up the mountainside. We had to go under and over fallen trees, and push through thickets, puddles, mud, and all sorts of other messy obstacles. It was awful in that heat—a real ordeal. Upon arriving in the village, we discovered that while we had followed the original route, others had taken a different path—an easy road leading straight into the village. Still, we had made it, and we were all the richer for the experience.

As a consolation, I stayed in a beautiful casa rural in the village; it was tastefully decorated and featured a lovely balcony. We received an incredibly warm welcome, complete with a nice cold beer and a comfortable chair. I love that kind of thing—and the price, too, for that matter 😄

Date: 29-05-2026
Distance: 18 km
Up: 535 m
Down: 521 m
Overnight: Casa Rural Aldea Pazos

Date: 30-05-2026
Distance: 12 km
Up: 357 m
Down: 337 m
Overnight: Apartement Fogar en Soutelo

It was a misty day today. I enjoyed sitting on my terrace for a while before heading down for breakfast. It was a well-prepared breakfast with tasty coffee—something you don't get every day. Afterward, I went back to my room to grab my gear before making my way down to the bridge where the taxi was to pick me up. Last night, there was a lot of rehearsal activity in the village involving mock battles with pitchforks and sticks; people were striking at each other with great enthusiasm. 😁 The village was already bustling; stalls were being set up and loudspeakers for the music were being tested. I was to be picked up by the taxi down by the bridge, which served as the entrance to the village. While I was waiting, a soldier dressed in Napoleonic-era uniform approached and asked me in English where I was from. A conversation struck up, and it turned out he was wearing the costume because his ancestors had fought against Napoleon's troops near this bridge in 1809. The villagers had won that battle. This event is still celebrated in the village every year with a reenactment of the battle. Judging by the stalls and preparations, a large crowd was expected, and extensive parking space had been set aside in the nearby meadows. It was time for me to move on.

Shortly after, the taxi arrived and took me 20 km further along, leaving me with a 12 km walk to complete the journey myself. So, I still managed to get some walking done today. Many people living along the route create art installations; some are more beautiful than others, but they almost always relate to the Camino. Sometimes they fill their entire gardens with them—they tend to go a bit overboard.

Plenty of experiences again today. I stayed in an apartment with room for four people. So far, all four of us have managed to have separate sleeping quarters.

Date: 31-05-2026
Distance: 22 km
Up: 425 m
Down: 578 m
Overnight:: Casa Rural A Casa do Ovo

It was a great day for a walk—wonderfully crisp with a pleasant breeze. The first half of the day was fairly flat, following good paths. The second half was a different story: a long, muddy track strewn with large stones, followed by some steep climbs. The route wasn't supposed to be long or involve much elevation gain, but over such a short distance, the paths become very steep. I passed through several villages, but there was nowhere to buy anything. A soft drink would have been nice now and then—though that’s something you don’t come across very often on this Camino anyway. After a long descent, I arrived in a village that boasts exactly one supermarket, one hairdresser, and one bar-restaurant—and everything was open! Suddenly, five other pilgrims from Spain and Argentina appeared. We’re all staying in the same house, which is now fully booked. Apparently, this village is a junction where two Camino routes meet; that likely explains the sudden influx of people. It’s bound to get busy in the bar tonight, too—so I’d better head there early for dinner!

Date: 01-06-2026
Distance: 26 km
Up: 479 m
Down: 829 m
Overnight: Hotel Albeitaria

The weather was perfect for walking when I set off. I was the last to leave the guesthouse; the early birds had started hobbling out as early as 5:30 AM, while I left last at 7:30. That felt early enough, especially since we couldn't check into the new hotel before 4:00 PM. Anyway, I walked alone through a beautiful rural landscape. It promised to be an easy day, with just the occasional small hill and more villages and houses than we’d been used to. A large part of the route led through a forest—a forest of eucalyptus trees. These trees were imported from Australia in the past to combat soil erosion; they grow very quickly, preventing the soil from washing away during rain. A downside, however, is that they are difficult to extinguish during forest fires due to their eucalyptus content, and they cause the soil to dry out by extracting vast amounts of groundwater. They have become highly invasive now; there is no stopping them.

I came across many deserted villages again. Yet, the people living there often put a lot of effort into their gardens. That was easily the tallest cactus I’ve ever seen. I also encountered plenty of old churches and beautiful vistas—rolling landscapes!

I didn't feel like stopping to rest, and things were going well, so I arrived early at the first bar in the final town, Pontevea. I don't know how it’s possible, but I hadn't run into anyone along the way, yet I was the first to reach the village; the others were probably sitting inside somewhere when I passed by. We’re staying at a therapy center here that also rents out rooms. It looks nice and tidy, and the atmosphere is friendly. Tomorrow is the last day—on to Santiago. I’m curious to see what the others will think of it; they’ve never been there before.

Date: 02-06-2026
Distance: 18 km
Up: 611 m
Down: 379 m
Overnight: Hostal as Margaritas

We set off from Pontevea—where we’d had an excellent stay—a bit earlier than usual. There was still quite a bit of elevation gain ahead of us today, but that didn't dampen our spirits. The final hills of the day were actually pretty steep and involved a fair amount of climbing; in particular, the approach to Santiago involves a long, uphill stretch. The square in front of the cathedral was quite busy. Even though it was still relatively early in the season, there were a lot of walkers around. I saw on the Pilgrim Office website that over 2,400 people had arrived the day before—so, huge numbers once again. After arriving at the square and walking around the church with the others, we headed to the Pilgrim Office to pick up our Compostelas. You can tell that too many people are arriving daily now, as the staff aren't exactly friendly anymore. Securitas personnel direct the flow of people, and the volunteers handling the Compostelas no longer hand-write them; they’re printed out instead. A shame! Afterwards, we went to the hostel for a quick shower, then strolled around the old town and—of course—had the obligatory beer 😃

Total distance 238 km
Total up 5986 m
Total down 6410 m
11 days