Date: 12-06-2022

I decided not to stay in Oviedo but to push on to Escamplero. There’s a restaurant there that also rents out rooms; I’d visited before and had booked a room for this trip as well. It’s a great place to sleep, and the food is excellent. The next morning brought pouring rain and thunderstorms—there had been plenty of thunder and lightning overnight, too. I really should have set off early, but I waited a little while instead! When the rain eased up a bit, I put on my rain gear and headed out. It was actually far too warm for rain gear, but it was raining too hard to rely on just an umbrella. Eventually, I made my way along various slippery paths, passing through beautiful villages with small chapels.

The rain makes everything incredibly slippery. It’s striking how self-sufficient most families are here; many have large vegetable gardens. It’s a lovely sight! Every now and then, you see memorial stones for pilgrims who died along the way—something that inevitably happens here, too. Finally, after 27 km, I arrived in Cornellana. There’s an old monastery there that has been partially converted to accommodate hikers. It’s old, but acceptable! I started by doing some laundry, as they have a washing machine and dryer here—so convenient! Tomorrow is a new day—a 33 km stretch—so I’m heading to bed early tonight, but first, I’m going to enjoy a good meal in the village!

Date:13-06-2022
Distance: 33 km

I woke up early this morning in the monastery dormitory. There were only two toilets, so when the first person got up at 6:30, I immediately jumped out of bed to wash up. It was going to be a long day—just over 30 km, with a good 20 km of gradual uphill walking. Stepping outside, I found heavy cloud cover and thick fog all around me, though it wasn't quite raining. The path started climbing right behind the monastery, and things didn't feel right. Maybe because it was the 13th? My pack wasn't sitting comfortably, my socks felt wrong, my little toes were hurting, and I had a sensation under my foot like my sock was bunched up. A frustrating start. The route involved a lot of walking on paved roads today; whenever I turned onto a forest path, I’d sink ankle-deep into the mud because the weather had been very wet for the past three days.

After 11 km, I stopped in Salas for a coffee and some magdalenas (Spanish cupcakes). Delicious! From 11:30 onwards, the fog was so thick that walking on the road felt dangerous—cars could barely see you. At least close-up photos were still possible. 😀

You also come across many small chapels along the way. They are usually locked, though occasionally you find one open. It’s wonderful to see the effort people put into them!

I’ve also come to the conclusion that I’m pretty much done with Caminos that consist mainly of mountains. After the Norte, two Primitivos, and three San Salvadors, I realize this isn't really my thing anymore; in the future, I’ll stick to flatter routes. When I arrived in Tineo, the albergue located in the basement of the 4-star hotel turned out to be quite crowded. I didn't fancy that, so I opted for a private room instead. I’ve been soaking in the bath like Scrooge McDuck—along with the laundry I threw in there. Pure luxury! Tomorrow will be a short day to Borres or the next village over.

Date 14-06-2022
Distance: 18 km

Had a wonderful dinner at the 4-star hotel last night, and the room was excellent too. Even managed to do some laundry while having a lovely soak in the bath 😀.

Set off after breakfast this morning; it was still misty. Tineo lies in a valley, so the route started with a climb. At a certain point, you rise above the mist, and the blazing sun hits you instantly! But what a beautiful view!

And, of course, the road kept going up. Today was supposed to be a short day—a rest day—heading to Borres. 20 km is just a three-hour walk, leaving the rest of the day free! Along the way, I heard that the private albergue in Borres was already full, leaving only one other albergue where I could stay. I felt that was too big a risk, as I didn't know how many people were walking ahead of me. Campiello is located 2 km before Borres, and there was plenty of space there. So, I decided to get a room there to enjoy my rest day.

Had a really pleasant lunch with others: Walter from Belgium, Gert from Germany, an American living in Ireland, and a father and daughter from Buffalo, USA. We had a great laugh. Afterward, I spent some time resting on the bed; it’s nice and cool in the room, whereas it’s getting very hot outside.

Had a salad with Walter this evening and then headed to bed early, as I have to get up early again. Tomorrow is going to be a long, strenuous day crossing the Hospitales route!

Date: 15-06-2022

Today was the toughest stage, but also the most beautiful. It involved an elevation gain of 1,000 meters and a descent of 500 meters. It was set to be a hot day, around 28 degrees. I’ve been sleeping very poorly here, usually waking up around 2:00 or 2:30 AM—likely due to my work habits. Last night was no exception; I lay awake for half the night and got up at 6:15. I tended to my feet, wolfed down a yogurt, a banana, and some Magdalenas for breakfast, and set off into the semi-darkness at 7:00.
It soon grew light, and I found myself looking out over a beautiful landscape once again.

It was going to be an arduous day, as we were heading to significant altitudes with steep climbs. The upside, of course, is the magnificent view of the surrounding area. Up here, at 1,520 meters, there is absolutely nothing but cows, horses, heathland, and idiots.

After reaching the summit, the trail headed back down, with another 10 kilometers still to go. I chose to cover that stretch via the road rather than the official trail. The road is hotter, certainly, but it’s faster and involves less climbing. Eventually, I arrived at the Camino Primitivo albergue, which Casa Herminina had booked for us. So, all us old guys—the Belgian, the German, the American, and myself—found ourselves a bed. We walk alone during the day, but in the afternoon, we laugh ourselves silly—provided we have any breath left, that is! 😀

Today, I also came across the gravestone of a German man who had died in his early thirties! It was a lovely spot with a magnificent view, though.

Date: 16-06-2022
Distance: 19 km

Today’s trek wasn't very long, but that didn't make it any less strenuous.

As is often the case, the route started with a steep climb before descending to the water level of the dam. The photo above shows the path upwards (slanting up to the right), just below the wind turbines. The far side of this mountainside burned down in 2018, and crews are currently busy pulling out the charred trees and planting new ones. Once I reached the dam, I naturally had to climb up again on the other side of the mountain. It was quite a workout, as the weather was very hot—and it felt even hotter on the road, with the heat radiating off the asphalt.

Fortunately, a bit further up the slope on the other side, there was a restaurant with a terrace. Time for a nice rest!

I arrived exhausted at the village where I was planning to spend the night. The first albergue was full, and so was the second. The municipal one was filling up fast too, so I decided to get a hotel room instead. It helps that accommodation here isn't too expensive.

Later that afternoon, I was sitting with some other hikers when it started pouring rain; this soon turned into a hailstorm with stones the size of a child's hand! Everyone was in a panic; the waiter was afraid the hail would smash through the canopy, so we had to move inside. The power also kept cutting out every five minutes, leaving the whole village in darkness.

The day ended up having an exciting finish after all 😀

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Date: 17-06-2022
Distance: 29 km

I slept well at the hotel, and needless to say, I headed back up the trail after breakfast. I didn't take many photos today because, really, all the shots from the mountaintop look the same—so I’ve stopped doing that. 😀 I took a short stretch of forest path and noticed some incredibly large snails here! I’ve never seen them that big or fat back in the Netherlands.

I walked along the road for pretty much the whole day today. It was lovely. Some people hate it, but I really enjoy it. Plus, roads don't tend to climb as steeply as hiking trails do, so it saves some effort. I crossed the border into Galicia along the way, which means restaurants serving pulpo (octopus) are back on the menu!

I was getting close to Fonsagrada. The town sits on a plateau, and the climb begins right before you reach it—so getting up there is quite a trek! After that, I still had a walk of just under forty-five minutes to reach my accommodation. A nice, quiet spot!

Date: 18-06-2022
Distance: 27 km

Today was the last day I would encounter mountains. It was another very hot and stifling day. I was set to finish in a tiny village called Castroverde—a place I had visited before—which boasts a lovely albergue. I walked along the road for most of the day, as the inclines are more gradual there and the walking is easier for me. There was plenty to eat and drink in this village, which is home mainly to agricultural workers.

Date: 19-06-2022
Distance: 22 km

The plan was to make a quick dash to Lugo so I’d arrive in time to explore the city. It promised to be a lovely route, featuring plenty of those typical Galician-style paths. I hadn't factored the weather into the equation, though. I was the last to leave the beautiful albergue—though still early, at 7:45 AM. I’d slept well, with no snorers around. I walked until about 10:00 AM, when the rain started—and it came down hard! It began just as I was getting ready for a bite to eat. I was sitting on a large stone, having just sliced ​​my baguette in half to add some tuna, when the rain started. The bread got absolutely soaked! 😀 It must have looked funny, just sitting there eating in the pouring rain.

I kept walking for another two hours or so until it dried up. By then, I was almost in Lugo.

Before entering the old town, the route took me down through a valley—even though there was a perfectly good bridge right there. My apartment was opposite the old municipal albergue I remembered from my previous visit.

In the evening, I enjoyed a lovely, sociable meal in the square with a group of ten: one American, one Irish woman, two Croatians, two Welshmen, three Dutch people, and one Brit.

It was a fantastic time!

Date: 20-06-2022
Distance: 33 km

Today, I was supposed to walk 33 km. When I woke up in my apartment, I was still so tired—and felt so wretched because of it—that I simply rolled over and set my alarm for 10 o'clock. Whether due to my routine back home or just sheer exhaustion, I’ve been lying awake for half the night and unable to get back to sleep. I got up at 9:30 and had breakfast on the covered terrace in the square. I really needed to stick to the schedule, and getting to As Seixas by bus would have required three separate connections. Instead, I decided to take a taxi and have the driver drop me off in Ferreira. In the old days, people used to hitch rides on the back of horse-drawn carts.

From Ferreira, I walked a beautiful stretch to As Seixas at a snail's pace, passing through stunning scenery and lovely old farmhouses. It took me longer than ever to cover just 5 km, as I was ahead of schedule. Along the way, I saw many cows and other animals in their barns—which seemed odd, given that plenty of other animals were out grazing in the fields. Why weren't these ones out there, too?

After arriving at the albergue, I first grabbed a bite to eat at a nearby restaurant. I’m sure I’ll manage to fill the rest of the day somehow.

Date 21-06-2022
Distance: 28 km

Last night, there were just four of us in a dormitory meant for thirty-five—so it was wonderfully quiet. I got up early and set off. At 7:30, I was walking towards Arzúa with an Irish woman. We needed to arrive reasonably early; she had to catch a 3:00 PM bus to Santiago because she had to stop walking to get home on time, and I needed to arrive early enough to secure a bed. Arzúa lies just past Melide, where the Frances (the Camino route from France) and the Primitivo converge. There are significantly more walkers on the Frances than on the Primitivo, so it gets very crowded. Plus, if possible, I like to stay at the guesthouse where I’ve stayed three times before. So, we kept moving. It was about 13 degrees—perfect Dutch-style walking weather for a T-shirt.

We soon left the last hill behind us and were ready for breakfast. Breakfast is usually had in a café, and the quality is excellent everywhere. After about nine kilometers, we came across the first bar, so we stopped to eat: bocadillo con queso y un café con leche—a half-baguette with cheese and a coffee with milk. Delicious. Occasionally, we’d switch it up with tostadas con mantequilla y mermelada—toasted bread with butter and jam. Everything here is tasty 😀.

A while later, we arrived in Melide, and—as expected—it suddenly became very busy. It was a completely different breed of people compared to those walking the Primitivo, Norte, or other Camino routes. They’re known as "Camino tourists"—people who start in Arzúa and walk the final 100 kilometers solely to get the Compostela certificate. Fortunately, there was still space at "my" guesthouse in Arzúa, and when I mentioned it was my fourth time staying there, I even got a discount 😀.

Date: 22-06-2022
Distance: 41 km

Got up very early this morning. That wasn't a problem, as I’m hardly sleeping here anyway. I set off at 7:00 AM—which was necessary, given the roughly 40 km I had to cover. I was walking alone, so I could easily maintain my own pace. There was a lot of asphalt today, and the terrain was fairly flat. There wasn't much to see along the way, as the scenery isn't spectacular. I started at a brisk pace, averaging 5.8 km/h for the 19 km stretch to Pedrouzo—very fast for me with a backpack. I stopped there briefly for coffee and a sandwich before heading straight back out. It wasn't too crowded; because I was walking so fast, I was ahead of the people who had started in Arzua and behind those who had started in Pedrouzo (who were about 2 or 3 hours ahead of me). It was nice and quiet, as hardly anyone else was walking the Camino Francés at that moment.

I arrived in Santiago at 3:00 PM. The square was full of happy, cheerful people. I went straight to the Pilgrim's Office to pick up my credencial (pilgrim's passport), as that process can sometimes take a while—this time, it took just over an hour. Afterward, I headed to my accommodation: Hospedería San Martín Pinario. Beautiful rooms, spotless, and centrally located. It’s almost always fully booked, which is why I hadn't stayed there before. I then took a short walk near the cathedral. The entire church has now been renovated inside and out and looks beautiful again; the interior has also been fully refurbished. I didn't take any photos of it, as there are already plenty from previous years. I did, however, take a picture of the Puerta del Perdón (Door of Forgiveness), the Holy Door. It is open this year due to the extended Holy Year. It is a door that is normally bricked up (the second door in the photo above) and is actually broken open at midnight on New Year's Eve. A Holy Year occurs whenever July 25th—the feast day of the Apostle James—falls on a Sunday. There are fourteen such Jacobean Years every century; the last ‘Xacobeo’ was in 2010. During a Holy Year, pilgrims can earn a so-called plenary indulgence: a complete remission of punishment. To do so, the pilgrim must walk at least 100 km to Santiago de Compostela, enter the cathedral through the ‘Puerta del Perdón’ upon arrival, go to confession, and receive communion. So, that doesn't apply to me 😀

Daarna een pizza wezen eten bij de Italiaan. Heerlijk! Vroeg naar bedje toe. Erg moe!

After wandering around Santiago for a few days, you’ve pretty much seen it all. It’s a beautiful city—always bustling and full of activity—but it can feel a bit repetitive. It does, however, give you plenty of time to reflect on the kilometers you’ve walked.
The Camino de San Salvador is, as always, a stunning yet very strenuous trek. During the period of Muslim rule in Spain, this route was used to transport valuable ecclesiastical treasures northward across the foothills of the Picos de Europa—a mountain range that Muslim forces never reached. I walked this route for the third time this year. Since every day—except for the first and last—involves a significant climb, you are treated to magnificent panoramic views. The best approach is to complete it in five or six days and to carefully consult the recommendations from Eroski (click here) and/or Gronze (click here).
From the Netherlands, the quickest option is to fly to Madrid and take the high-speed train to León—a journey of just over two hours (costing approximately €55).
The San Salvador route is exceptionally well-marked over its 122-kilometer length, making it easy to navigate without a guidebook or app.
For the Camino Primitivo, on the other hand, I did need a GPS. This was my second time walking it. Spanning roughly 350 kilometers, the route offers several variations that take you past sites like old chapels; the Hospitales route is a well-known alternative.
The Camino Primitivo is the oldest known pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela. It was first walked in 814 by King Alfonso II, traveling from Oviedo to Santiago. Because Spain’s pilgrimage routes are classified as cultural heritage, (European) funds have been allocated for path maintenance—a difference that is clearly noticeable in 99% of cases. In Galicia especially, many paths are surfaced with fine gravel or similar materials, ensuring you don't have to trudge through mud when it rains. Incidentally, this is a Camino that involves walking on asphalt quite a bit—less than on the Norte, but still!
As I mentioned, this route is very strenuous due to the significant changes in elevation. One of the most challenging sections is the "Hospitales" variant between Campiello/Borres and Berducedo. This route follows the old path along the mountain ridge that pilgrims used in the past. Along the way, there are—I believe—three ruined hospitales (shelters or lodgings) that were used back then. The route involves an ascent of around 1,000 meters and a descent of 500 meters; it should only be attempted in good weather, and even then, it is a real ordeal.

I’ve walked this route twice now, and I think that’s enough for me. After tackling so many mountain stages, I’ve realized that mountains aren't really my thing. Plus, given the unpredictable weather—and the high probability of bad weather in Galicia—I’ve decided I’d rather hike in the south. Maybe the Camino Olvidado at some point, but that would truly be the last one :-)

Still, the fact remains that it is a stunning route!